
So you’re heading to Cusco. Good choice. But showing up unprepared is a mistake. This city isn’t just a pretty picture it has its own rhythm and its own challenges. The biggest one hits you the moment you step off the plane.
The Altitude Reality Check
You’ll hear it a thousand times but let me say it again: the altitude is no joke. Cusco is located at about 3,399 meters (around 11,152 feet) and your body will feel it immediately. Breathing feels weirdly manual. Walking up a slight incline can leave you winded. This is completely normal.
- Your First Day Rule: Do NothingSeriously. Your grand plans to explore can wait. Find your lodging drop your bags and take it easy. Your only job on day one is to acclimatize. Walk slowly. Drink tons of water. Maybe find a nice cafe near the Plaza de Armas and just watch the city go by. A coca tea (mate de coca) might help settle your stomach and your head. Some people swear by it others don’t notice a thing. Can’t hurt to try right? Don’t eat a massive heavy meal. Keep it light. And absolutely avoid alcohol.
- Spotting SorocheAltitude sickness or soroche as it’s known locally feels like a nasty hangover. Headache nausea dizziness. If you feel it getting bad don’t be a hero. Most hotels and pharmacies have oxygen you can use for a few minutes. Pharmacies also sell pills like Sorojchi Pills. It’s best to let your body adjust naturally but it’s good to know options are there if you’re really struggling. The feeling is just draining. All your energy vanishes.
Moving Around the City
Cusco’s historic center is very walkable. In fact walking is the best way to discover its magic. But its hills are relentless.
- Walking the CobblestonesThe main area around the Plaza de Armas is relatively flat. But venture up towards the San Blas neighborhood and you’ll be dealing with steep narrow streets. They’re beautiful full of artisan shops and little cafes but they will test your freshly acclimatized lungs. Wear comfortable shoes with good grip. The stones can be slick especially after it rains. Just wander. Getting a little lost is part of the fun. I once found a tiny courtyard with an old woman weaving just by taking a wrong turn.
- Taxis and ColectivosFor longer distances taxis are everywhere. But here’s the deal: always agree on the price before you get in. There are no meters. Ask your hotel or a local what a fair price should be to avoid getting the «gringo price.» It should be a few soles for short trips within the city. For trips into the Sacred Valley look for colectivos. These are shared vans or cars that run set routes. They are insanely cheap and a great way to travel like a local. You just find their departure point and wait for them to fill up. It’s a bit chaotic but it works.
Money Smarts
Peru uses the Sol (PEN). While cards are accepted in many larger hotels and restaurants Cusco is still very much a cash-based society.
- Cash is KingYou will need cash for taxis small shops local markets and entrance fees to some smaller sites. It’s best to withdraw Soles from an ATM. Look for banks like BCP or Scotiabank as they tend to have more reliable machines. Always try to break your large bills as soon as possible. Paying for a 5 Sol water bottle with a 100 Sol note will not make you any friends.
- The Tourist Ticket DilemmaYou’ll hear a lot about the Boleto Turístico del Cusco (Cusco Tourist Ticket). This is a single ticket that gives you access to multiple ruins and museums in and around the city. There are different circuits and validity periods. If you plan on seeing several major sites like Saqsaywaman Ollantaytambo Pisac and Moray buying the full ticket is usually cost-effective. But do the math. If you only want to see one or two places, some of them offer individual entrance fees. The ticket system can be confusing. It feels a bit like a tourist trap sometimes but it can also save you money. It just requires a bit of planning to see if it fits your itinerary.
Eating and Drinking
The food in Cusco is a highlight. You can eat incredibly well for cheap or you can splurge on world-class cuisine.
- Beyond the Tourist MenusThe restaurants lining the Plaza de Armas are fine but often overpriced. For a real taste of local food head to the San Pedro Market. It is an intense explosion of sights sounds and smells. You can get a massive set lunch (menú del día) for just a few Soles. It usually includes a soup a main dish and a drink. Is it the most hygienic place? Maybe not. But the food is authentic. Also look for picanterías or quintas which are traditional eateries often located a bit outside the main tourist drag.
- Stay Hydrated the Right WayDo not drink the tap water. Ever. Always buy bottled water. It’s sold on every street corner. And as mentioned before keep drinking it. The altitude dehydrates you faster than you realize. Your body is working overtime and needs all the help it can get. Suddenly you’ll realize you have a splitting headache and it’s probably just because you forgot to drink enough water. Simple.
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